Three Weeks in China - a taste of Tibet

Presently, I am on the airplane to Nepal.  I have thought long and hard about the title of this blog entry.  In my opinion Tibet barely exists any longer.

A  bit of background. The Chinese under Mao Zedong took over Tibet in 1959.  Based on different books that I have read & discussions it was a very harsh time to say the least.  The wealthy & religious Tibetans who did not successfully flee to Dharmsala, the Tibetan Free State in India were stripped of all of their possessions, imprisoned, tortured, raped & starved. The ordinary citizen just subsisted under a socialist state.  Religion was stamped out with destruction of thousands of Tibetan monasteries and nearly 100% of the religious artifacts.

If we leap forward to the 1980’s liberalization with respect to religion occurred. Monasteries began to be re-built. Today there are a lesser number of monasteries than before and often only a fraction of the monks and nuns are in residence as compared to the 50’s.   On a different front, we worked hard to seek out Tibetan culture for 3 weeks in Amdo and Kham. We found pockets in select cities and none in others.  Why was this?  Tourists like me, the internet, TV, videos were all causing dilution of the culture.  Even more invasive is the Chinese Government.  Today they have specified that Tibet equals Lhasa and nothing more.  Amdo, Kham and U Tsang are not classified as Tibet.  They are classified as China.

It is my opinion that the Tibetan culture is being systematically stamped out by the Chinese Government.  While they are offering education to the Tibetan children they are taught that they are Chinese, not Tibetan.  The Tibetan language and culture is only taught in the home.  I have written about the Nomad situation.  They are being given smaller, defined plots of land and the number of animals that they are permitted to raise is smaller than before, based on the head count in the family.  The nomads are being offered cinder block home in cluster developments with food subsidies for several years as a way of incenting them to get off the land.  These are un-educated people; what will become of them when the subsidies run out?  There children are away from the home in residential state run schools with Chinese indoctrination.  

The Chinese government has been financially inscenting Han Chinese to move into specially built mid rise apartment buildings in towns that were previously Tibet. Many of these people are setting up shops.  


These little towns are looking more and more Chinese and less and less Tibetan.

The Chinese are paid more than the Tibetans when filling government jobs. Options for the Tibetans to earn a living are less and less every day.  They are getting boxed in. While some are able to secure Chinese passports, travel beyond Nepal is cost prohibitive for most.  Visa to India are forbidden since it is assumed that they are intending to go to Dharmasala. 

Tibet is rich in natural resources and China is stripping it all out to support the rapid growth in Mainland China.  Everything; minerals, wood, oil, timber and water.

If a location looks like a possible money maker than the Chinese government is taking it over, re-fashioning it into something that they think is desirable.  In actuality it becomes more modern and fake, and they are collecting significant admission fees.  This is what I am told Lhasa looks like today- Chinese dominated and army infested to the hilt.  I personally had a taste of this on the Chang Minority Village that I visited.

Speaking with my Driver who has escorted tourists for 28 years I asked about the timing of all of these changes.  He tells me that they have been progressively happening since the 1980’s.  Every time he re-visits a town, it becomes more modern & more Chinese.

Construction is rampant.  New sidewalks, roads sewers, bridges, tunnels…Dust and filth when it is dry and mud when it rains.

Politically, China is a very closed and repressive regime.  Its citizens and tourists are not permitted to access social networks like Facebook, anything about Dharmsala, or anything that is seemingly controversial.  Police and military presence on the street is strong in all towns.  Gatherings of the Tibetan people is discouraged.  The major Horse Festivals, Yushu and Litang where the Tibetan Nomads showed off their beautiful horses, riding skills, jewelry and clothing have been cancelled by the Chinese Government. 

My guide was paranoid that my picture taking in some towns would get him arrested.

Internet access at an Internet Cafe for all citizens and tourists required entry of a citizens ID number (like our passport #)- everything is trackable.  My internet access is cut in one particular hotel on the 2^nd day when the government is in residence having a business meeting.  By comparison, we in America have such a transparent political system.  Yeah sure there are secrets and information that is under the cloak of “national security” but by comparison our doors are wide open.  

I am told that Dalai Lama #15, the next Lama after HH (His Holiness) was arrested at the age of 3. Today he is 19 years old and still in prison.  The Chinese government has selected the next Lama to succeed His Holiness and he is a Chinese citizen.

When asking Tibetans if they become angry about the situation they explain that anger is not an emotion in the Buddhist teachings.  Violence is also a no-no. 

On the subject of Self-Immolation, I ask why is this happening and in increasing frequency in 2012 over prior years?  I am told that it is a plea for the Dali Lama to come home as well as the hope of those that light them self on fire to be re-incarnated into a better life.

I have always thought of myself as someone interested in culture.  In pursuit of culture, I cannot help but to observe & understand how the political landscape has and is impacting the culture of the Tibetan people. 

On a personal note travel to these remote locations was frustrating, tiresome and a bit disappointing at times despite having a Tibetan guide and driver. It is not my intention to paint a bleak picture just truthfully describe what I saw and experienced.

Beyond the challenges and considerations I have described, I still recommend visiting Tibet.  I believe that it needs to be done in a timely manner. I will share the same thought that others told me before embarking on this trip. While today is not as good as yesterday it is better than what you will experience tomorrow.  If you are interested, I propose that you travel to the Tibetan Regions of Amdo and Kham soon. Don't even bother with Lhasa- its been totally ruined.  There is still authentic Tibetan life to be experienced. 

To quote a fellow photographer, Phil Borges, Tibet is a Culture on the Edge.  Go now, you cannot afford to wait.  Hire an English speaking Tibetan guide and frequent Tibetan owned establishments.  You can still have an authentic experience while simultaneously putting money into the hands of the Tibetans.

Carpe Diem,
Lorrie
www.LorrieDallekPhotography.com

A Few More Bright Spots

Some of the towns we visited were cool others could have been skipped all together.  Dege was one that I enjoyed.  The library in Dege was a magnificent original building spared from the Cultural Revolution.  It is where the sutras are manually printed using a block printing methodology and stored.  Truly a treasure. 

It is also a beacon for those who do Kora every day. The majority of the practitioners are elderly often with their grandchildren.  Occasionally there were a few younger persons in the mix.  This particular woman was wearing lots of large jewelry, something I did not see much of outside of the photos from 2008 and back of the large Horse Festivals now cancelled by the government.  She wasn’t too interested in obliging me, so I had to chase her around a few laps just to grab this snap shot of her.

 
The other curious aspect of this location were the old couches and chairs that circled the building.  They served as a place for the local people to take a break and socialize between circumambulation. And then there were the pack of street dogs who also took advantage of the handy trash cans and cushy rest spots to call home. 

Here is my favorite “Rasta Dog”



Another cool spot was Guarang, home to the Chang Tibetian minority.  The village was sort of a fairy tale like setting with the hills dotted with castle like homes. 


We did a home stay for 2 nights which afforded me the opportunity to start early in the morning, catch a woman weaving fabric from sheep’s wool for her winter coat and attend a local festival.  Food was passed around to me and barley wine cooked up & shared in a communal pot.  3 weeks and no intestinal distress- I passed.

Woman drinking home made Barley wine with a straw from a communal pot
Got to dash and catch my plane to Nepal.  

More to come
Carpe Diem
Lorrie
www.LorrieDallekPhotography.com

Saved from Yushu

I am told that Yushu once was a magnificent, large busting town filled with Tibetan culture, religion and nomads.  In 2010 they endured a significant earthquake that killed a reported 3,000+ people.  While many buildings were damaged or leveled some were untouched.  The government used this as an opportunity to re-build Yushu according to their master plan.  They evicted all of the Tibetan Nomads and razed the entire city with the intention of turning it into a business center with mid-rise buildings. 

Two years out they tell people that the town has now been re-built. This was anything but the truth.  The center of town is a dusty, muddy mess with 90% of the inhabitants & businesses operating out of blue tents.  We really walked into a bad situation. It was late and we did all we could to get a few hotel rooms.  At the far end of town we ended up in the most disgusting hotel, bar none that I have ever stayed in. The walls were thrown up wall board, 2 wash basins with wet dirty rags to wash with-not, an open latrine for a toilet- nope, and a wet dirty carpet…. But they offered what they thought what was important: a toothbrush kit & a TV.  Needless to say, I slept in my clothes. We couldn’t leave town early enough the next morning. I will spare you any pictures. 

Our next stop was the town of Dzogchen, home to a wonderful monastery and nunnery at about 5,000 meter elevation which is equal to 10,600 feet.  It is located in a valley surrounded  by snow capped mountains, clean air and magnificent vistas.

I proposed that we ask to stay over night there as a place to heal of psyche.  The nunnery welcomes guests and so for a small donation we were put up in a simple, clean and  peaceful place.  This was precisely what we all needed after Yushu.  We were served a very basic dinner of rice porridge, soup and yak yogurt for dinner followed by tsampa (barley, yak butter and sugar) for breakfast.  

I’ve been trying small tastings of yak bi-products.  Good news -no unpleasant consequences from the yogurt or butter.  The yak meat is off my list.

 While there was no electricity and or shower for a 2nd day I was OK with that. Plenty of hot boiled water and cold running water to make a sponge bath.  I was on my way to recovery.    

In the morning the fog that blanketed the valley progressively lifted.  What a beautiful sight 

Gorgeous detail on the temple at the nunnery.  Here you see one from a pair of elephants that flank the entrance

In the evening I had a semi-private meeting with a re-incarnated Lama who spoke excellent English.  It was an interesting experience.  

Here he is the following morning doing Kora/circumambulation of the temple at the nunnery.

Well we are back on the road to find the next great experience.


Carpe Diem and all that it may serve up,
Lorrie
www.LorrieDallekPhotography.com

Horse Racing

Horse Racing is one of the special times for the Nomadic people of Tibet.  It’s an opportunity to gather, celebrate, dress up in your finest clothing and jewelry and have fun at this competitive event. The larger festivals with all of its pageantry are in the summer.  Many have been curtailed entirely or now inaccessible to foreigners. 

Lum Bum told me that often the locals still pull together smaller impromptu festivals.  This type of gathering is just too much a part of Nomadic life to stamp it out.  Through word of mouth Teshi, our superb driver learned from the drivers of other tourist cars that indeed a festival was taking place in the area. 

After a lot of poking around we got to attend the last few hours of what was in fact a 4 day event.  We were treated like dignitaries; allowed to sit and photograph from the inside of the event.  The horses were really hyped up so I had to keep some distance but had access to the horses, their owners and riders. 

It was lots of fun and a chance to take another glimpse at Nomadic life.

This is one of the final races of the event

Carpe Diem,
Lorrie

www.LorrieDallekPhotography.com

The Nomads

On the road from Labrang to Lahmo Town/Monastery. I get to see my 1^st nomad family consisting of 3 adults on horseback and several dogs all doing the herding.  They are moving their Yak and sheep further north to a new location.  What was once a dirt road has changed now to a 2 lane highway with a moderate amount of car and truck traffic.  The drivers are impatient, horns are honking and animals are scattering.  Near miss experiences occur with regularity as an animal makes a sudden turn and darts out in-front of a vehicle.  Once again the old is competing with new.

Systematic changes are being instituted by the government as well.  The amount of livestock each family can own is being regulated and reduced, parcels of land partitioned & re-appropriated, nomads moved in too traditional homes with temporary economic incentives and subsidies. Sound familiar?

I really want to see the old ways and my visit is not a minute to soon.  Extended discussion and planning at a trekking company enables Lumbum to arrange a very authentic experience.  1.5 day horseback trek, a lunch visit with one family and an over night stay with another and all the trimmings that come with that.

As we ascend to 4,000 meters the views become ever more breath taking.  Just spectacular blue sky, green grass with spring flowers popping up all over.  The landscape is dotted with nomad tents, their families and livestock.

  

Lunch stop with a nomad family affords me the opportunity to photograph their children in the most beautiful light at the opening of their tent. I am mesmerized by the shape of their faces and texture of their skin.   

After lunch the middle boy pics up LumBum’s camera and starts to manipulate the controls. 

This is totally unprompted.  We are just cracking up the whole time.

Back on our horses after lunch heading to our over night stay with a nomad family in their tent.  Lots of tea and bread to get to know one another.  Now time to move the animals from the pasture to lines close to the tent is done amidst a rain storm.  They are moved so that they can be milked in the morning starting at 5AM for many hours by the wife.

The rain subsides in the morning for a few hours and out I go.  

Milking the female yaks is a lengthy process. Untie the baby, let it find its mother, drink for a few minutes, separate it from its mom, milk the yak, release both.

A very welcome hot breakfast and then a walk to the lake.  I am rewarded again with wonderful light until the rain resumes.

With this authentic experience comes a lot of reality.  I am not complaining. Yuk dung is burned to head the tent & cook our food, their 4 herding dogs never quite get accustomed to our presence so they bark until 3:30 am, it rains all night so I am chilled to the bone for the next 1.5 days, I smell like hell & my shoes are just caked. The Yaks will be with me for a while mentally and physically.

I think that my toileting “au natural” may be the most unique experience of all which is shared with a very curious male Yak.   Suddenly I hear grunting as he creeps up behind me for a very close and personal encounter.  Geeze ;-)

It’s all worth it I wouldn’t have given up a minute of it.

Carpe Diem,
Lorrie
www.LorrieDallekPhotography.com

Further into Tibet

The morning is spent at the Rebkong Temple watching the locals doing Kora (circumambulation) of the temple and prayer wheels.  It’s a rather small monastery mostly visited on a daily basis by the locals. When we stopped and asked, several said yes you may take my picture.

  

Immediately across the street at the plaza were 2 older men sitting on the steps who had completed their daily Kora and were passing time.  Clearly Tibetans with their deeply tanned skin wearing felt hats.  May I take your picture?  Their sweet reply was “do as you wish”.  Lum Bum sat down and began chatting with them in Tibetan and I began to shoot. Eventually I also joined the group.  The usual questions of where are you from & how old are you were exchanged.  Then we got into their biggest question; I had nice teeth & are they real? Well the fronts are real, the backs are crowned was translated into Tibetan & like a horse being examined for sale I opened my mouth and everyone had a look see. ;-).  Lots of laughs.  Then one of the men said “I am 80 years old and been photographed by many Westerners but none have ever sat down and spoken to me.  Wow.  My next stop was a photo shop were we made a print of the 3 of us for each man.  Back to the steps, but no men.  We showed the picture to a few that lived in that little block of apartments and eventually were directed to 1 room a walk up apartment where one of the men lived. He was so happy to see us.

While these people have so much less materially than us they have so much spiritually and there is always a big warm smile. 

Back on the road as we commute North to Labrang Monestery.  My first sheep and yaks grazing. I am so fortunate the grass is green and the small ground flowers are beginning to come up.

 Our driver, Teshi is a local so he has lots of friends and connections.  When we arrive in Labrang we check into a local Tibetan hotel. It’s just wonderful with the rooms build around an indoor courtyard.  I am given a choice of 2 rooms-Western or Tibetan style, both with electricity, and a western style toilet.  No question, I want to sleep in the Tibetan style room on a carpeted, matted platform. Here is where I spent my next 2 nights.

The next 1.5 days is spent at Labrang centered around the extremely large Labrang Temple.  On the intersection of one of the entrances of the temple and the Main Street is a Tea House run by a young English speaking Tibetan couple.  Here, a mix of monks, Westerners and Travel guides float in and out using the free WiFi, drinking coffee/tea, eating, getting on then internet, speaking freely and sharing ideas.  Given how very restrictive the Chinese government is I am really surprised that an establishment like this is permitted to exist.  Would it be here if I returned next year or in a couple of years?  Or might the government take it over as they continue to Sinofi Tibet.


Carpe Diem,
Lorrie
www.LorrieDallekPhotography.com

Tibet is the Soul of its People

I tell people that I am all about photography but in truth as I look back at my trips over the last 10 years my trips have really been about the culture of the place I am visiting; the pulse, its inner being, its soul.  This could not be a more true a statement than here in Tibet. 53 years of severe repression, loss and destruction starting with Chairman Mao that is still being carried out today in different forms. 

Books like Skytrain and Daughters of Tibet have offered me a look back in time to complement what we are reading in the press today. Then I get to fill in the truth, my truth by seeing in person what is happening on the ground plus open 1:1 discussions with, Lum Bum  http://tibetanshamantour.com/ my wonderful Tibetan guide who not only has guided other photographers but also Bradley Mayhew, Author of the Lonley Planet Guide, Tibet.  I did not know this when I signed on.

Yesterday, our 1^st stop was the Chachang (sp) Monastery which sits way above the mighty Yellow River. 

While it is small in physical size it is full of soul.  Layers upon layers of Buddhism and tradition. Today it is being re-built with a few artifacts that were hidden by the locals and mostly newer replicas.  My biggest take away was with a discussion with a monk who told us  that he had escaped to Darmasala, India the home of Tibet in Exile for 20+ years yet decided to return to Tibet because he feels that Tibet is his true home, This is the sentiment of many.

The absolute highlight of the day was the Achunzon (sp) nunnery. Another 1^st experience for Lorrie and just wonderful !  Blue skies, green grass, clean air, 3 resident donkeys, a few dozen goats and true peacefulness. We were hosted by 2 nuns who we shared meals with, slept in their humble homes, wandered the grounds and got to sit in on morning  prayer.

I bedded down in a small 1 room house with a novice nun, Tenzen Dun Kar about 16 years of age.  Since I only know 2 words in Tibetan so far and Tenzen speaks no English there were lots of laughs as the 4 of us (me, Tashi the Driver, Lum Bum and Tenzen fumbled through blowing up the air mattress.  Topped off with my Target sleeping bag Tenzen insisted that I still needed another blanket and she proceed to tuck me in with her extra blanket on top of my sleeping bag.  How sweet. 

The little one room house that Tenzen sleeps in. 

Tenzens bed and prayer platforn on the left.  My blow up mattress on the right.

Sitting in on morning prayer was another 1^st for me.  The prostration, the chanting in the temple all so moving.

I feel like I have been here for a week but it’s only been 2 days.  Wow.  Tibetan culture, language, Buddhism, politics.  Now to build on my 2 words Tibetan vocabulary of Hello (Dem) and Goodbye (Denshe)-I have a long way to go. ;-).  Stay tuned.

Carpe Diem,
Lorrie
www.LorrieDallekPhotography.com