Saved from Yushu

I am told that Yushu once was a magnificent, large busting town filled with Tibetan culture, religion and nomads.  In 2010 they endured a significant earthquake that killed a reported 3,000+ people.  While many buildings were damaged or leveled some were untouched.  The government used this as an opportunity to re-build Yushu according to their master plan.  They evicted all of the Tibetan Nomads and razed the entire city with the intention of turning it into a business center with mid-rise buildings. 

Two years out they tell people that the town has now been re-built. This was anything but the truth.  The center of town is a dusty, muddy mess with 90% of the inhabitants & businesses operating out of blue tents.  We really walked into a bad situation. It was late and we did all we could to get a few hotel rooms.  At the far end of town we ended up in the most disgusting hotel, bar none that I have ever stayed in. The walls were thrown up wall board, 2 wash basins with wet dirty rags to wash with-not, an open latrine for a toilet- nope, and a wet dirty carpet…. But they offered what they thought what was important: a toothbrush kit & a TV.  Needless to say, I slept in my clothes. We couldn’t leave town early enough the next morning. I will spare you any pictures. 

Our next stop was the town of Dzogchen, home to a wonderful monastery and nunnery at about 5,000 meter elevation which is equal to 10,600 feet.  It is located in a valley surrounded  by snow capped mountains, clean air and magnificent vistas.

I proposed that we ask to stay over night there as a place to heal of psyche.  The nunnery welcomes guests and so for a small donation we were put up in a simple, clean and  peaceful place.  This was precisely what we all needed after Yushu.  We were served a very basic dinner of rice porridge, soup and yak yogurt for dinner followed by tsampa (barley, yak butter and sugar) for breakfast.  

I’ve been trying small tastings of yak bi-products.  Good news -no unpleasant consequences from the yogurt or butter.  The yak meat is off my list.

 While there was no electricity and or shower for a 2nd day I was OK with that. Plenty of hot boiled water and cold running water to make a sponge bath.  I was on my way to recovery.    

In the morning the fog that blanketed the valley progressively lifted.  What a beautiful sight 

Gorgeous detail on the temple at the nunnery.  Here you see one from a pair of elephants that flank the entrance

In the evening I had a semi-private meeting with a re-incarnated Lama who spoke excellent English.  It was an interesting experience.  

Here he is the following morning doing Kora/circumambulation of the temple at the nunnery.

Well we are back on the road to find the next great experience.


Carpe Diem and all that it may serve up,
Lorrie
www.LorrieDallekPhotography.com