Happy in Hoi An

Blue skies, moderate temperatures, commutation to the hotel with a pleasant driver, what more can a girl ask for. How much better can it get. Well it did. The hotel staff (not a fancy hotel my any means) instantly learned my name, had a bathtub and very hot water and made changes when I just made casual mention.

Hoi An is a small town were I both walked & bicycled about without fearing for my life. Lots of old architecture, a very vibrant and visually stimulating Fish Market and the notorious “China Beach” a few Km’s away.

After walking the same path and smiling, the shop keepers started to ask me to photograph them. 1 guy even called me into his shop to show me his new puppy. Another was taking his water buffalo back at the end of the day and he saw me in the distance- he waved be over,  helped me walk across a very rickety bamboo bridge so I could get a lot closer. Very sweet people.

Here is how I spent my Sunday – are you jealous?

My view looking up from my umbrella





I loved it here so much that I extended for 1 day. Off later this am south to the Mekong Delta.

More to come soon,
Carpe Diem
Lorrie 
www.LorrieDallekPhotography.com

Be Careful of What You Wish for

In the spirit of making use of every second I have, I hired a private care to take me to a Thursday Market 2.5 hrs away before departing on the night train back to Hanoi.  A very small market but an opportunity to see the colorful Flower H’mong ethnic minority and several other Hill Tribe  people Warm weather and a touch of sun was in my favor.

The usual fare of people doing their weekly shopping. More unique were the horse drawn carts that some used, and the piglets that arrived to market in sacks with leashes on squealing the whole time. Despite being a meat eater myself, it is still disturbing to hear. I had previously seen dogs on their way to market in Laos and China, this time I got to seem them weigh the dog in. You know he wasn’t being sold as a house pet.


Then on to the train station for a 5 hr wait for my night train back to Hanoi and further south to Hoi An via an airplane. I had been taking a better class train, only 4 to a berth. 2 Europeans and I Vietnamese in my carriage. During my last hotel re-pack, I had thought to myself that I had brought perhaps 1 pair too many socks. No problem, my friendly bunk mate took care of that. Gone to the bathroom on the train for less than 5 minutes and so were my socks that were lying on my bed.

A relatively inexpensive reminder, NEVER LET YOURT GUARD DOWN. I hope that the people of Vietnam are a lot gentler in the South.


More to come soon,
Carpe Diem,
Lorrie Dallek
www.LorrieDallekPhotography.com

They Found the Water Buffalo - Sa Pa

The next day I spent the morning working on my logistics for the next city. When I came down for breakfast, I was informed that Dave the owner of the photo gallery was looking for me. Usually a good sign. Still in my sleepwear (not PJ’s), I ran down the hill – never let an opportunity slip through your fingers was what I was thinking to myself. Sure enough Dave told me that his employee, Cu, a Black H’mong woman and her village had located her long lost Water Buffalo.  Cause for a party. Did I want to come? You know the answer. A quick shower and breakfast and off we went on a motorcycle.


The found Water Buffalo

When I asked Cu how she knew this was her water buffalo, she said that she could just tell. Maybe its special long eye lashes??? What do I know about water buffalo anyhow :)

By 11 am the rice wine was out and all the guests were getting shit faced. Home made rice wine, pig, morning glory and rice. I limited the rice wine intake, shot some images and miraculously escaped getting sick from this experience. All and all a fun day.

More to come soon,
Carpe Diem,
Lorrie 
www.LorrieDallekPhotography.com

 My “2 H’mong Walking Sticks” - Sa Pa

Several weeks ago when I was thinking of going to SaPa, someone mentioned “it’s great if you have 2 H’mong walking sticks. I looked at them curiously not understanding what they were saying.  It sounded a bit disrespectful but I let it go at the time.

I arrived in Sa Pa, north of Hanoi, home to many different Hill Tribe People. The owner of my hotel mentioned that there was a Photo Gallery down the street. I did not waste any time and went right over. The photographer was an ex-pat from Denver Colorado. After covering all the photo basics he suggested that I spend the day going into one of the Hill Tribe Communities in the area. He was took it upon himself to walk me to the park and introduce me to a guide.

After negotiating a price, my Guide, Zi and I agreed that we would take the easier trip today to her home village.

Zi my guide

As we headed out, I felt like the Pied piper with 3 additional women in tow. All spoke English reasonably well so we covered the basics, starting with our respective age, marital status and # of children. Perhaps 1 Km out of town, Zi asked if I wanted to take the seldom taken route to her village – sure sounds like fun. This is when I learned the definition of “2 H’mong walking sticks”. Steep hills, tons of rocks and small quasi ledges to be negotiated. 2 of these 3 tiny woman, one on each side, wearing plastic sandals helped hold up and balance the big American lady wearing her super technical hiking boots. Oh, I forgot to mention that both of these ladies are in their 40’s. The 3rd woman was carrying a 2 month old baby on her back.

My 2 H'mong Walking Sticks

Both of my new 'best friends", each came up to about my shoulder

More to come soon,

Carpe Diem,

Lorrie

www.LorrieDallekPhotography.com

 Halong Bay and Surrounds

I spent the weekend on a boat in Halong Bay and the surrounds. What a welcome relief from Hanoi. Once on the water I instantly relaxed. The entire trip was orchestrated by a tour operator so no need to fend for myself: no dodging traffic, no miscounting my money, or living in a freezing unheated Hanoi hotel room for 3 days. The capacity on the boat is 14 but being off season, there were only 5 of us. Really quite a treat as well.

The weather in Halong was a bit soupy but that aside very interesting visually. Similar to the Li River in China, both have numerous limestone outcrops as mountains on both sides of the river. I found Halong to be far more interesting based on the irregular shapes and placement of these mountains as well as the activity of the locals including those coming up to the tour boats and trying to trying to sell snacks.

The real treat was Beo Fishing Village. One of many I am told. Here, the people catch fish in the bay and ocean perhaps, place the fish in large net pens in the bay where they continue to grow until they are ready for sale. The fishermen & woman, live on these floating structures with no less that 2-4 dogs apiece and their entire family. My understanding that formal education is limited for the children of these villages. This was my  time seeing this so I was quite intrigued by this village indeed. In fact a few of us arranged an additional boat tour of Beo Village for several house the next morning starting at sunrise. Wow is all I can say. It going to be VERY hard to select my favorite images from this experience but here are a few to wet your appetite.

Off to Sa Pa, North of Hanoi via the night sleeper train.

More to come soon,
Carpe Diem,
Lorrie 
www.LorrieDallekPhotography.com

 I Survived my 1st Full day in Hanoi

I have missed entries RE: Lampang, Chiang Rai & Chiang Mai, Thailand but will try to add those.

Yesterday I flew from Chiang Mai, Thailand via Bangkok to Hanoi Vietnam. The flight was relatively straight forward with the exception of being overweight on my luggage and not having enough local currency on me to pay the penalty fee. The money changer wasn’t open and I did not want to withdraw Baht from my US checking account @ a 3% bank fee. A bunch of back and forth negotiations and eventually we worked it out by charging my penalty fee. So much for spending down every last Baht the evening prior at the Chiang Mai Sunday Market!

My first impression of Hanoi was frightful. The sky was pea soup grey just like I experienced last year in China. I just could not get a straight answer from anyone. The good old internet confirmed my worst fears – serious POLLUTION, blowing in from China as well as home grown. I was dreadfully ill last year upon my return from China and just didn’t want to repeat that. Next, plan what might become a shortened visit and escape stage left.  And then there was the case of no heat in my room, only AC and lots of noise pollution until 11 pm coming from the street.  My wax ear plugs that I use for swimming took care of the noise and a 2nd quilt, the cold.

After a lot of research on Monday eve, I found what turned out to be a main connection – the Kangaroo Café – an English speaking, Tour Operator who directed me to place to purchase a new Simm card for my cell phone so I could call from Vietnam, a Chemist so I could purchase multiple face masks to filter the air and a trip to Halong Bay leaving on Friday. I started to relax and feel a little better.

Essentials covered, I set out to explore the city.  While admiring lacquor ware in a shop window I ended up meeting a lovely English speaking Filipino woman who I spent about half a day with. What a god sent – she helped me with the money, referred me to a money changer for a better exchange rate than my hotel offered, introduced me to a wonderful Vietnamese Restaurant where we had lunch and most importantly, taught me how to cross the street and survive. Thank you Betty.

Sounds silly but judge for yourself. Motorcycles, scooters, cyclos, pedestrians, and cars are all over the place. Everything was being moved on some sort of bike. It is each man/woman for oneself.   Its very common for the cycles and scooters to be parked on the sidewalk so more often than not, the pedestrian is forced to walk in the street amidst the moving vehicles. 

These pics were taken between 3-4pm.  Rush hour was not even into full swing at that point.  

Walking back to my hotel @ 5pm, I was stuck in a 5 intersection traffic jam where nothing moved and no one was there to administer.  It was the motorcycles driving on the sidewalk that ultimately enabled the traffic knot to be untied.

More to come soon,

Carpe Diem,

Lorrie 

www.LorrieDallekPhotography.com

 Happy New Year- สวัสดี ปี ใหม่

So much in such a relatively short period of time. On Jan 1, I left the shelter with Mickey, the Founder and  another volunteer heading north. The intention was to make a stop in one of the Hill Tribes and interview a few girls for possible inclusion at the shelter as well as visit a few of the hot spots for sexual trafficking of children. Our first big event was when we spotted 2 Westerners (ex-pats) on the road with large backpacks asking a local for directions. The three of us looked at one another and discussed whether we should give them a ride? After passing them yet a 2nd time we did indeed extend an offer. Mind you we were way up North heading to a remote Yao village in DoiWawi, Thailand, West of Chiang Rai. Well, they hopped into the back seat and rather than purse their original plans after being dropped off at the wrong spot by the local bus they, Alan and Galey ended up spending the next 2 days with us as we made out way along the Thai/Myanmar /Laos borders. They were a great addition, both working for NGO’s (non-government organizations) out of Bangkok. Truly wonderful people and I think long term friends.

At our 1st major stop, DoiWawi, we were hosted by the chief of the village, his wife, several young children and the chief's 80 year old mother. Grandma was quite skeptical at first, refusing to look at us but eventually let me take a few photos of her. 3 of the older girls at the shelter had originally come from this same village. We were absolutely treated like royalty, fed an enormous quantity of delicious food for both dinner and breakfast the next morning. After arriving but before dinner, we went to pick fresh oranges in their orchards. After dinner, 4 “at risk” girls were briefly met with for consideration at the shelter. The next morning we got up at 5 am to hit the mountain top for sunrise. The men and woman slept separately, so Gelay became my “new best friend”, sharing a room with me. Showers were skipped and  bathroom visits kept to a minimum at our personal discretion as both were outside in a very rudimentary structure with very basic appliances – need I say anymore!

 80 year old grandma

Sunrise at Doi Wawi

Mai Sai, official and unofficial border crossing into Myanmar was our next major stop. The Guest house were stayed in was right on the river between Thailand and Myanmar. Hot showers a real treat in Thailand, were taken immediately upon check-in, then out to explore. Border crossing for the Thai & Burmese at Mai Sai cost 10 B (Baht), which is about 30 cents. Many do so on a daily basis to sell their good on both sides. Being New Years holiday it was sheer pantomime. There were a huge volume of people going in both directions. To me the most interesting point was how porous the border actually was. Some were just opting to avoid the 30B walking across the river others skimming along the fence and hopping over. Lot of very poor people, some selling merchandise, other just begging – it was very sad to see. Mai Said is also a populist border crossing for a "Visa Run" – place to get a 2 week extension on a Thai Visa.

A very poor "Day Trader" coming from Myanmar
to Thailand to sell her goods

Illegal Bording Crossing from Thailand to Myanmar

Thailand on the left, Myanmar on the right

One man carried his bicycle overhead

as he crossed the river and by-passed the

official border check.

Alan and Gelay wearing every stitch of clothing they had

to try and stay warm - clearly not enough

After Mai Sai, we headed East to Chiang Sean a river port were cheap Chinese goods are dropped off & Chinese Cargo ships restocked. Another curious site as I got to see live ducks purchased and transferred, to the cargo ships.

Next stop, Chiang Kong, border crossing to Laos. This is where people can also make a visa Run – go into Laos and get a 2 week renewal on their Thai Visa. Phinn, the volunteer traveling with us opted to ender Laos this way, travel south to Vientiane, capital of Laos to apply for a 3 month Visa extension at the Thai embassy. A much quieter border crossing, a mere small boat crossing on the now low tide Mekong River to the other side.

A few more hours on the road and we arrived in Chiang Rai where Alan, Gelay and I were dropped off.

More to come soon,

Carpe Diem,

Lorrie 

www.LorrieDallekPhotography.com