I Survived my 1st Full day in Hanoi

I have missed entries RE: Lampang, Chiang Rai & Chiang Mai, Thailand but will try to add those.

Yesterday I flew from Chiang Mai, Thailand via Bangkok to Hanoi Vietnam. The flight was relatively straight forward with the exception of being overweight on my luggage and not having enough local currency on me to pay the penalty fee. The money changer wasn’t open and I did not want to withdraw Baht from my US checking account @ a 3% bank fee. A bunch of back and forth negotiations and eventually we worked it out by charging my penalty fee. So much for spending down every last Baht the evening prior at the Chiang Mai Sunday Market!

My first impression of Hanoi was frightful. The sky was pea soup grey just like I experienced last year in China. I just could not get a straight answer from anyone. The good old internet confirmed my worst fears – serious POLLUTION, blowing in from China as well as home grown. I was dreadfully ill last year upon my return from China and just didn’t want to repeat that. Next, plan what might become a shortened visit and escape stage left.  And then there was the case of no heat in my room, only AC and lots of noise pollution until 11 pm coming from the street.  My wax ear plugs that I use for swimming took care of the noise and a 2nd quilt, the cold.

After a lot of research on Monday eve, I found what turned out to be a main connection – the Kangaroo Café – an English speaking, Tour Operator who directed me to place to purchase a new Simm card for my cell phone so I could call from Vietnam, a Chemist so I could purchase multiple face masks to filter the air and a trip to Halong Bay leaving on Friday. I started to relax and feel a little better.

Essentials covered, I set out to explore the city.  While admiring lacquor ware in a shop window I ended up meeting a lovely English speaking Filipino woman who I spent about half a day with. What a god sent – she helped me with the money, referred me to a money changer for a better exchange rate than my hotel offered, introduced me to a wonderful Vietnamese Restaurant where we had lunch and most importantly, taught me how to cross the street and survive. Thank you Betty.

Sounds silly but judge for yourself. Motorcycles, scooters, cyclos, pedestrians, and cars are all over the place. Everything was being moved on some sort of bike. It is each man/woman for oneself.   Its very common for the cycles and scooters to be parked on the sidewalk so more often than not, the pedestrian is forced to walk in the street amidst the moving vehicles. 

These pics were taken between 3-4pm.  Rush hour was not even into full swing at that point.  

Walking back to my hotel @ 5pm, I was stuck in a 5 intersection traffic jam where nothing moved and no one was there to administer.  It was the motorcycles driving on the sidewalk that ultimately enabled the traffic knot to be untied.

More to come soon,

Carpe Diem,

Lorrie 

www.LorrieDallekPhotography.com

 Happy New Year- สวัสดี ปี ใหม่

So much in such a relatively short period of time. On Jan 1, I left the shelter with Mickey, the Founder and  another volunteer heading north. The intention was to make a stop in one of the Hill Tribes and interview a few girls for possible inclusion at the shelter as well as visit a few of the hot spots for sexual trafficking of children. Our first big event was when we spotted 2 Westerners (ex-pats) on the road with large backpacks asking a local for directions. The three of us looked at one another and discussed whether we should give them a ride? After passing them yet a 2nd time we did indeed extend an offer. Mind you we were way up North heading to a remote Yao village in DoiWawi, Thailand, West of Chiang Rai. Well, they hopped into the back seat and rather than purse their original plans after being dropped off at the wrong spot by the local bus they, Alan and Galey ended up spending the next 2 days with us as we made out way along the Thai/Myanmar /Laos borders. They were a great addition, both working for NGO’s (non-government organizations) out of Bangkok. Truly wonderful people and I think long term friends.

At our 1st major stop, DoiWawi, we were hosted by the chief of the village, his wife, several young children and the chief's 80 year old mother. Grandma was quite skeptical at first, refusing to look at us but eventually let me take a few photos of her. 3 of the older girls at the shelter had originally come from this same village. We were absolutely treated like royalty, fed an enormous quantity of delicious food for both dinner and breakfast the next morning. After arriving but before dinner, we went to pick fresh oranges in their orchards. After dinner, 4 “at risk” girls were briefly met with for consideration at the shelter. The next morning we got up at 5 am to hit the mountain top for sunrise. The men and woman slept separately, so Gelay became my “new best friend”, sharing a room with me. Showers were skipped and  bathroom visits kept to a minimum at our personal discretion as both were outside in a very rudimentary structure with very basic appliances – need I say anymore!

 80 year old grandma

Sunrise at Doi Wawi

Mai Sai, official and unofficial border crossing into Myanmar was our next major stop. The Guest house were stayed in was right on the river between Thailand and Myanmar. Hot showers a real treat in Thailand, were taken immediately upon check-in, then out to explore. Border crossing for the Thai & Burmese at Mai Sai cost 10 B (Baht), which is about 30 cents. Many do so on a daily basis to sell their good on both sides. Being New Years holiday it was sheer pantomime. There were a huge volume of people going in both directions. To me the most interesting point was how porous the border actually was. Some were just opting to avoid the 30B walking across the river others skimming along the fence and hopping over. Lot of very poor people, some selling merchandise, other just begging – it was very sad to see. Mai Said is also a populist border crossing for a "Visa Run" – place to get a 2 week extension on a Thai Visa.

A very poor "Day Trader" coming from Myanmar
to Thailand to sell her goods

Illegal Bording Crossing from Thailand to Myanmar

Thailand on the left, Myanmar on the right

One man carried his bicycle overhead

as he crossed the river and by-passed the

official border check.

Alan and Gelay wearing every stitch of clothing they had

to try and stay warm - clearly not enough

After Mai Sai, we headed East to Chiang Sean a river port were cheap Chinese goods are dropped off & Chinese Cargo ships restocked. Another curious site as I got to see live ducks purchased and transferred, to the cargo ships.

Next stop, Chiang Kong, border crossing to Laos. This is where people can also make a visa Run – go into Laos and get a 2 week renewal on their Thai Visa. Phinn, the volunteer traveling with us opted to ender Laos this way, travel south to Vientiane, capital of Laos to apply for a 3 month Visa extension at the Thai embassy. A much quieter border crossing, a mere small boat crossing on the now low tide Mekong River to the other side.

A few more hours on the road and we arrived in Chiang Rai where Alan, Gelay and I were dropped off.

More to come soon,

Carpe Diem,

Lorrie 

www.LorrieDallekPhotography.com

Community Outreach - Teaching English

The 4 older girls have English class at their district school which is supplemented almost nightly at the Shelter. Both the younger girls as well as the older ones have English Classes on both Saturday and Sunday for 2 hrs each session. On the weekends, the doors of the shelter are opened to the local children of the district who also join for the English Classes.

Yoomie, (volunteer) teaching Sat. and  Sun. English Classes

Finn, (volunteer) teaching Saturday and Sunday English Classes

A View of Both Classrooms

The House Mom, Fah also takes English, class Monday-Friday after breakfast has been finished.

Fah (House Mom) taking English Lessons from Finn, (Volunteer)

All of these classes are taught by one of the short or long term volunteers. This last Saturday one of the volunteer teachers took ill so I took over the Saturday class of the younger children. I must say that they keep me hopping as I tried to hold the attention of 8 children all different ages and at varied levels. We covered number, colors, shapes and animals. I was just knocked out.

More to come soon,
Carpe Diem,
Lorrie Dallek 

www.LorrieDallekPhotography

You can also visit the COSA, (Children’s Organization of Southeast Asia) Web Site to learn more about the organization and their work:
www.cosasia.org

Merry Christmas

Sorry so many days have passed sine I last updated my blog. So much happens everyday; I will have to play a little catch-up.

In Thailand, we are 12 hours ahead of the US, so we have just completed celebrating Christmas Day. We had our big dinner this evening, American style – food limitations prevailed based on what was available at the local market. Keeping in mind that the Shelter is 11 miles North of the nearest large city, Chiang Mai, we are in the country. Yummie, one of the other female volunteers orchestrated dinner.

We cook everyday in an outdoor kitchen on a wok powered by a gas tank. No oven, no microwave- hum, creativity was needed on all accounts… A pre-cooked roasted chicken was procured at the local market as well as available fresh vegetables and fruit of the day - not exactly a Kroger’s or Whole Foods type selection. Yikes we asked for butter and got some solid, orange vegetable oil/ lard like substance to work with. Oh well do as you must. No cranberry sauce so I cooked up sliced fresh apples with sugar and lard in the wok. The mashed potatoes were equally interesting made with unpasteurized cows milk (we opted for the unpasteurized stuff over soy milk) and this lard.

Outdoor Kitchen/Laudryroom a shared space

All I can tell you is that after eating rice or noodles w/vegetables every single day, 3x/day, this dinner was a smashing success. Not a lick of food was left over.

The 4 oldest girls at the Shelter-L to R-Ghan, Phar (House mom), Yoomie (volunteer), Fon, Ning, Yoohie

Clean up was quite another matter. Grease everywhere which the cold water from the garden hose (standard dishwashing fare) did not cut. We had to boil hot water in the wok to wash the grease out of the pot.

               

Dishes knocked out, we progressed to our own homegrown Christmas party with a tree, snowflakes, fireplace amd ornaments made out of construction paper. Balloons, lots of Christmas music from CD’s, ballroom dancing and gifts that Yummie and I pulled together from our personal stash, recent travels and a little clandestine local buying.

Dancing to Christmas Music

The butter cookies were bought during a trip I made to a neighboring town earlier in the week, baby dolls and stuffed animals bought in America, originally made in China, handmade bracelets from the Chiang Mai night market, a scarf and coconut bracelets from Cambodia, nail polish, and a hand made lantern from Lampang, Thailand– everyone was delighted !!!

Rah-Tee  opening up her Baby Doll Christmas present

We really had a fun night and got a share a little bit of the better side of Americana with the kids.

More to come soon.
Carpe Diem,
Lorrie
www.LorrieDallekPhotography.com
                        
You can also visit the COSA, (Children’s Organization of Southeast Asia) Web Site to learn more about the organization and their work:
http://www.cosasia.org/yourlens2009.htm

School

The 4 older girls at the shelter: Gan, Yooie, Ning and Fon ages 12-14 attend a local district school. Their tuition is paid for by the shelter.  They walk or ride a bicycle about ½ mile each direction to get there. An educational curriculum is taught including English classes. Uniforms are required to be worn which are purchased by the shelter. The standard red uniform is worn Monday-Wednesday, the green “scout/helping” uniform on Thursdays and traditional Thai dress on Fridays.

The 2 younger children also attend a local school.

Carpe Diem,

Lorrie
www.LorrieDallekPhotography.com

You can also visit the COSA Web Site to learn more about the organization and their work in SE Asia:

http://www.cosasia.org/yourlens2009.htm

On the Move

 On the Move

About 4 months ago, COSA faced a significant local political situation and was forced to re-organize and re-locate. This was when I personally became involved.

A quick emergency effort to raise money to build the new shelter, Baan Yuu Suk and relocate it to 11 miles North of Chaing Mai started. The Art Auction in Atlanta on 11/08/09 and Urgent Request to Friends and Family was made to enable building of the new shelter

On Monday evening, Mickey and I took the night train north to Chaing Mai. We arrived 14 hours later. A 20 minute ride north of the city and I am about to see with my own eyes what I have been writing and talking about non stop for the last 3 months.

At 4pm, I start to hear children giggling. The 1st group has arrived home from school. I walk from the volunteer’s quarters to the dining hall/children’s sleeping quarters and I a greeted by the 2 youngest: Dao the youngest and Rah-Tee. I intellectually knew that they were 4-5 years of age but seeing it in person is unbelievable. They are just babies, sweet and running around like any child their age but all have a mix of physical and emotional scars. At the time all I wanted was for them is to get to know me. It didn’t take long, by the end of the evening they were hugging and hanging on to me. Now as I write this blog, I am tearful. I cannot believe that such atrocities were committed against these sweet babies.

Dao-the youngest addition

A little while later the 4 older girls arrive home from school. They are reserve and polite for about an hour all introducing themselves. I struggle with matching their names to their faces. You can tell that they are very sweet despite my inability to speak to them.

We all eat dinner together. The older girls help the younger ones with getting ready for bed. Then they have English class led by Finn, a German volunteer.

They are a great group of kids.

Carpe Diem,
Lorrie 
www.LorrieDallekPhotography.com

Please visit the COSA Web Site to learn more about the organization and their work in SE Asia:

http://www.cosasia.org/yourlens2009.htm

Catch-up

 Catch-up and Background

I realize that I should have made entries sooner. I was gathering information and wanted it to be cohesive. So here we go:

I arrived in Bangkok after 26 hrs of flying with 2 stop and plane changes. Mickey Choothesa, the Founder of COSA was waiting for me. A very welcome experience, not having to navigate anything on my 1st few days particularly since my personal time clock was upside down and I don't speak the language.

Mickey and I stayed in Bangkok until Monday evening when we took the nigh train to Chaing Mai (more on that later). We talked non stop with Mickey filling in missing information on the subject of Sex Trafficking.

We agreed that it was relevant to visit the “Red Light District” in Bangkok as one way for me to gain some background knowledge and understand of the difference between what happens here vs. COSA’s work.

Sex Tourism in particular brings many Western visitors and their money into the country. The "Red Light" district in Bangkok offers sex related shows e.g. bikini clad dancing on the bar and sex shows using their genitals in unnatural ways. There are also “Sex workers” available. Most “Sex workers” are over 21 years of age. We ask ourselves why they are working here. Mickey explained to me that education is compulsory and free through the 8th grade for Thai citizens. Thereafter, a parent must pay for their child’s education. Many cannot afford to pay and so what is to become of these children? Their employment opportunities are limited. To help the family some of these young persons become "Voluntary Sex Workers".

By contrast COSA is working with a different type of Sex Trafficking. It is "Forced Trafficking." that they are addressing. The Minorities are generally farmers or migrant workers living in abject poverty. Like the "Voluntary Sex Workers" poverty is at the root. Unlike “Voluntary Sex Workers” these children are under aged victims with no choice and no voice. They are forced into trafficking. These children may be as young as 4 years of age.

COSA’s approach is to work towards prevention through creation of self sustenance of the Hill Tribe Communities whereby they can support themselves without having to sell their children. They also offer intervention for children that are at risk or have already been subject to physical and/or sexual abuse.

On the intervention side, Mickey a Thai national as well as an American citizen goes into the brothels and to the Chiefs of the Minority Hill Tribe Communities to identify children that are being trafficked or at risk. After negotiation and assessment several are selected and taken to a shelter, given a new start on life.

At the shelter the children receive total care: an organic diet, education, clean and safe living, love and a very safe environment to heal and grow up in.


More to Come
Carpe Diem,
Lorrie
www.LorrieDallekPhotography.com