Saved from Yushu

I am told that Yushu once was a magnificent, large busting town filled with Tibetan culture, religion and nomads.  In 2010 they endured a significant earthquake that killed a reported 3,000+ people.  While many buildings were damaged or leveled some were untouched.  The government used this as an opportunity to re-build Yushu according to their master plan.  They evicted all of the Tibetan Nomads and razed the entire city with the intention of turning it into a business center with mid-rise buildings. 

Two years out they tell people that the town has now been re-built. This was anything but the truth.  The center of town is a dusty, muddy mess with 90% of the inhabitants & businesses operating out of blue tents.  We really walked into a bad situation. It was late and we did all we could to get a few hotel rooms.  At the far end of town we ended up in the most disgusting hotel, bar none that I have ever stayed in. The walls were thrown up wall board, 2 wash basins with wet dirty rags to wash with-not, an open latrine for a toilet- nope, and a wet dirty carpet…. But they offered what they thought what was important: a toothbrush kit & a TV.  Needless to say, I slept in my clothes. We couldn’t leave town early enough the next morning. I will spare you any pictures. 

Our next stop was the town of Dzogchen, home to a wonderful monastery and nunnery at about 5,000 meter elevation which is equal to 10,600 feet.  It is located in a valley surrounded  by snow capped mountains, clean air and magnificent vistas.

I proposed that we ask to stay over night there as a place to heal of psyche.  The nunnery welcomes guests and so for a small donation we were put up in a simple, clean and  peaceful place.  This was precisely what we all needed after Yushu.  We were served a very basic dinner of rice porridge, soup and yak yogurt for dinner followed by tsampa (barley, yak butter and sugar) for breakfast.  

I’ve been trying small tastings of yak bi-products.  Good news -no unpleasant consequences from the yogurt or butter.  The yak meat is off my list.

 While there was no electricity and or shower for a 2nd day I was OK with that. Plenty of hot boiled water and cold running water to make a sponge bath.  I was on my way to recovery.    

In the morning the fog that blanketed the valley progressively lifted.  What a beautiful sight 

Gorgeous detail on the temple at the nunnery.  Here you see one from a pair of elephants that flank the entrance

In the evening I had a semi-private meeting with a re-incarnated Lama who spoke excellent English.  It was an interesting experience.  

Here he is the following morning doing Kora/circumambulation of the temple at the nunnery.

Well we are back on the road to find the next great experience.


Carpe Diem and all that it may serve up,
Lorrie
www.LorrieDallekPhotography.com

Horse Racing

Horse Racing is one of the special times for the Nomadic people of Tibet.  It’s an opportunity to gather, celebrate, dress up in your finest clothing and jewelry and have fun at this competitive event. The larger festivals with all of its pageantry are in the summer.  Many have been curtailed entirely or now inaccessible to foreigners. 

Lum Bum told me that often the locals still pull together smaller impromptu festivals.  This type of gathering is just too much a part of Nomadic life to stamp it out.  Through word of mouth Teshi, our superb driver learned from the drivers of other tourist cars that indeed a festival was taking place in the area. 

After a lot of poking around we got to attend the last few hours of what was in fact a 4 day event.  We were treated like dignitaries; allowed to sit and photograph from the inside of the event.  The horses were really hyped up so I had to keep some distance but had access to the horses, their owners and riders. 

It was lots of fun and a chance to take another glimpse at Nomadic life.

This is one of the final races of the event

Carpe Diem,
Lorrie

www.LorrieDallekPhotography.com

The Nomads

On the road from Labrang to Lahmo Town/Monastery. I get to see my 1^st nomad family consisting of 3 adults on horseback and several dogs all doing the herding.  They are moving their Yak and sheep further north to a new location.  What was once a dirt road has changed now to a 2 lane highway with a moderate amount of car and truck traffic.  The drivers are impatient, horns are honking and animals are scattering.  Near miss experiences occur with regularity as an animal makes a sudden turn and darts out in-front of a vehicle.  Once again the old is competing with new.

Systematic changes are being instituted by the government as well.  The amount of livestock each family can own is being regulated and reduced, parcels of land partitioned & re-appropriated, nomads moved in too traditional homes with temporary economic incentives and subsidies. Sound familiar?

I really want to see the old ways and my visit is not a minute to soon.  Extended discussion and planning at a trekking company enables Lumbum to arrange a very authentic experience.  1.5 day horseback trek, a lunch visit with one family and an over night stay with another and all the trimmings that come with that.

As we ascend to 4,000 meters the views become ever more breath taking.  Just spectacular blue sky, green grass with spring flowers popping up all over.  The landscape is dotted with nomad tents, their families and livestock.

  

Lunch stop with a nomad family affords me the opportunity to photograph their children in the most beautiful light at the opening of their tent. I am mesmerized by the shape of their faces and texture of their skin.   

After lunch the middle boy pics up LumBum’s camera and starts to manipulate the controls. 

This is totally unprompted.  We are just cracking up the whole time.

Back on our horses after lunch heading to our over night stay with a nomad family in their tent.  Lots of tea and bread to get to know one another.  Now time to move the animals from the pasture to lines close to the tent is done amidst a rain storm.  They are moved so that they can be milked in the morning starting at 5AM for many hours by the wife.

The rain subsides in the morning for a few hours and out I go.  

Milking the female yaks is a lengthy process. Untie the baby, let it find its mother, drink for a few minutes, separate it from its mom, milk the yak, release both.

A very welcome hot breakfast and then a walk to the lake.  I am rewarded again with wonderful light until the rain resumes.

With this authentic experience comes a lot of reality.  I am not complaining. Yuk dung is burned to head the tent & cook our food, their 4 herding dogs never quite get accustomed to our presence so they bark until 3:30 am, it rains all night so I am chilled to the bone for the next 1.5 days, I smell like hell & my shoes are just caked. The Yaks will be with me for a while mentally and physically.

I think that my toileting “au natural” may be the most unique experience of all which is shared with a very curious male Yak.   Suddenly I hear grunting as he creeps up behind me for a very close and personal encounter.  Geeze ;-)

It’s all worth it I wouldn’t have given up a minute of it.

Carpe Diem,
Lorrie
www.LorrieDallekPhotography.com

Further into Tibet

The morning is spent at the Rebkong Temple watching the locals doing Kora (circumambulation) of the temple and prayer wheels.  It’s a rather small monastery mostly visited on a daily basis by the locals. When we stopped and asked, several said yes you may take my picture.

  

Immediately across the street at the plaza were 2 older men sitting on the steps who had completed their daily Kora and were passing time.  Clearly Tibetans with their deeply tanned skin wearing felt hats.  May I take your picture?  Their sweet reply was “do as you wish”.  Lum Bum sat down and began chatting with them in Tibetan and I began to shoot. Eventually I also joined the group.  The usual questions of where are you from & how old are you were exchanged.  Then we got into their biggest question; I had nice teeth & are they real? Well the fronts are real, the backs are crowned was translated into Tibetan & like a horse being examined for sale I opened my mouth and everyone had a look see. ;-).  Lots of laughs.  Then one of the men said “I am 80 years old and been photographed by many Westerners but none have ever sat down and spoken to me.  Wow.  My next stop was a photo shop were we made a print of the 3 of us for each man.  Back to the steps, but no men.  We showed the picture to a few that lived in that little block of apartments and eventually were directed to 1 room a walk up apartment where one of the men lived. He was so happy to see us.

While these people have so much less materially than us they have so much spiritually and there is always a big warm smile. 

Back on the road as we commute North to Labrang Monestery.  My first sheep and yaks grazing. I am so fortunate the grass is green and the small ground flowers are beginning to come up.

 Our driver, Teshi is a local so he has lots of friends and connections.  When we arrive in Labrang we check into a local Tibetan hotel. It’s just wonderful with the rooms build around an indoor courtyard.  I am given a choice of 2 rooms-Western or Tibetan style, both with electricity, and a western style toilet.  No question, I want to sleep in the Tibetan style room on a carpeted, matted platform. Here is where I spent my next 2 nights.

The next 1.5 days is spent at Labrang centered around the extremely large Labrang Temple.  On the intersection of one of the entrances of the temple and the Main Street is a Tea House run by a young English speaking Tibetan couple.  Here, a mix of monks, Westerners and Travel guides float in and out using the free WiFi, drinking coffee/tea, eating, getting on then internet, speaking freely and sharing ideas.  Given how very restrictive the Chinese government is I am really surprised that an establishment like this is permitted to exist.  Would it be here if I returned next year or in a couple of years?  Or might the government take it over as they continue to Sinofi Tibet.


Carpe Diem,
Lorrie
www.LorrieDallekPhotography.com

Tibet is the Soul of its People

I tell people that I am all about photography but in truth as I look back at my trips over the last 10 years my trips have really been about the culture of the place I am visiting; the pulse, its inner being, its soul.  This could not be a more true a statement than here in Tibet. 53 years of severe repression, loss and destruction starting with Chairman Mao that is still being carried out today in different forms. 

Books like Skytrain and Daughters of Tibet have offered me a look back in time to complement what we are reading in the press today. Then I get to fill in the truth, my truth by seeing in person what is happening on the ground plus open 1:1 discussions with, Lum Bum  http://tibetanshamantour.com/ my wonderful Tibetan guide who not only has guided other photographers but also Bradley Mayhew, Author of the Lonley Planet Guide, Tibet.  I did not know this when I signed on.

Yesterday, our 1^st stop was the Chachang (sp) Monastery which sits way above the mighty Yellow River. 

While it is small in physical size it is full of soul.  Layers upon layers of Buddhism and tradition. Today it is being re-built with a few artifacts that were hidden by the locals and mostly newer replicas.  My biggest take away was with a discussion with a monk who told us  that he had escaped to Darmasala, India the home of Tibet in Exile for 20+ years yet decided to return to Tibet because he feels that Tibet is his true home, This is the sentiment of many.

The absolute highlight of the day was the Achunzon (sp) nunnery. Another 1^st experience for Lorrie and just wonderful !  Blue skies, green grass, clean air, 3 resident donkeys, a few dozen goats and true peacefulness. We were hosted by 2 nuns who we shared meals with, slept in their humble homes, wandered the grounds and got to sit in on morning  prayer.

I bedded down in a small 1 room house with a novice nun, Tenzen Dun Kar about 16 years of age.  Since I only know 2 words in Tibetan so far and Tenzen speaks no English there were lots of laughs as the 4 of us (me, Tashi the Driver, Lum Bum and Tenzen fumbled through blowing up the air mattress.  Topped off with my Target sleeping bag Tenzen insisted that I still needed another blanket and she proceed to tuck me in with her extra blanket on top of my sleeping bag.  How sweet. 

The little one room house that Tenzen sleeps in. 

Tenzens bed and prayer platforn on the left.  My blow up mattress on the right.

Sitting in on morning prayer was another 1^st for me.  The prostration, the chanting in the temple all so moving.

I feel like I have been here for a week but it’s only been 2 days.  Wow.  Tibetan culture, language, Buddhism, politics.  Now to build on my 2 words Tibetan vocabulary of Hello (Dem) and Goodbye (Denshe)-I have a long way to go. ;-).  Stay tuned.

Carpe Diem,
Lorrie
www.LorrieDallekPhotography.com

­Smile Twice, Smile Often

Atlanta-Detroit-Beijing is how I was routed with only a 58 minute stop over in Detroit. I was a bit concerned if my luggage would transfer.  At no charge, Delta moved me to an earlier flight.  Great, time for a dinner and a leisurely walk across the terminal. 

All is super until I receive an email on my cell that there was fraud on my MasterCard and I am getting a new card mailed to my home.  What, all I charged was a $10.50 dinner in Detroit and I called & told you guys about my plans to travel abroad.

I called my .cc company but not enough time on hold to understand what’s gone wrong.  They’re boarding & I’m already late. A quick call home and as always, Garvin my husband to the rescue.  He picks it up from there.  4 hours of phone work later & he is told that a block of #’s were stolen at the credit card company, mine being one and there is nothing that I can do.  Ha, it wasn’t my dinner after all, ;-).  After traveling in Myanmar where you cannot get any $$$ from ATM’s or use charge cards, I had brought more cash & travelers checks this time and threw in another card at the last minute. Garvin will also be doing a lot of my inter-country logistics from the states, so he can charge my next flight and many of my hotel rooms. Looks like I dodged this bullet.

The flight was cool, so was my ride to my hotel in Beijing. Frank had done as promised.  We walked 1 block to a train ticked office & picked up my physical train ticket.  Next on my wish list: to go to the Peking Opera.  With the help of the Helen at Concierge I was able to secure a ticket to what turned out to be a once in a life time experience.  I sat in the front row, took many pics & loved every second of it.  Just awesome.

Three times since leaving home I was asked if I was one of the actresses on “Desperate Housewives”.  I have never watched the show so cannot personally say which character but for certain some Chinese women seem to be ardent followers.  Since you cannot secure a Chinese Visa if you are a photographer, I just assured everyone that I am a mere tourist.

After figuring out the internet at my Holiday Inn I learn from Namdon that Lhasa is being closed but no permit is needed for Amdo or Kham.  I’m OK with this since my original intention was to go to Kham.  Lumbum was traveling East on the train out of Lhasa to meet me so all systems a go. 

P.S. the Chinese government really does have Facebook and blogs blocked so any updates I make are written on my notepqad, transferred to email at an internet café and posted on my blog site by Garvin in the US.

Entering the train station in Beijing was wild.  It made Grand Central or Penn Station in NYC look like child’s play.  Felt like a billion people. We are channeled from the main entrance to waiting areas to the platform.  Lots of pushing but I manage to forge brief friendships along each step of the way and secure those tidbits of help I need.  My new friend a college kid in this mini stampede points out which train car to get on since it is written in Chinese on my ticket. 

My car on the train was assigned so I settled in for 24 hour home away from home with a very loud & overly zealous grandmother, adult daughter & baby family unit + 1.  Out come my earplugs from swimming and I spend much of the next 24 hrs. switching between reading and sleeping.  Nobody speaks the same language but lots of miming and smiling.  Grandma my new best friend makes certain that I eat & can find the toilet. Cool.

A day later, the Xining train station is a welcome site.  After negotiating many flights of steps with my 2 very heavy bags, another mini step is conquered.  Lumbum and driver Tashi are there to greet me and put a white Buddhist shawl around my neck to welcome me.  7 months of planning and I finally get to meet my new friend, Lumbum.

As it turns out, not only are foreigners not being given permits into Lhasa but non Lhasa natives have been told to leave.  Lumbum was born in Amdo, his wife Namdon is from Lhasa.  Lumbum must leave.  He takes their 2 year old baby on the train and leaves her with his parents in Labrang where she is safe.  Namdon stays in Lhasa for the time being but there is no tourism to manage so she too may be coming East.  What a great country the USA is.

In the early evening we find an internet café for email & Skype updates home to my co-pilot, Garvin, cover current events & politics. We make our 3 week plan for touring Tibet based on my preferences.  I’m really excited. Tomorrow includes a few monasteries, landscapes & sleeping at a nunnery. 

I’m psyched. 
Carpe Diem,
Lorrie 
www.LorrieDallekPhotography.com

Communications

Lorrie is having trouble posting on the blog and Face Book- access has been limited.

Lorrie was  able to go to the Chinese Opera in Beijing  and sent me this picture to post.

When she gets to Xining I hope she will be able to create an update.

Carpe Diem,
PB
www.LorrieDallekPhotography.com

Can any one figure out what "PB" stands for?