Tuesday, February 2, 2010

The Delta



I hit 3 cities in the Delta. The 1st, My Tho could have been totally skipped. Very touristy, a place where visitors from HCMC who don’t have enough time to visit the Delta, might come to for a taste.

Next stop, Vingh Long. Stayed at a hotel that was described as one of the best for this town. Outright scary – condoms being openly dispensed on each floor and an HIV Clinic around the corner. OMG, did hookers work out of here? I knew that this would be my 1 and only night at this joint. I got a little food, got into long pants and socks and stayed holed up in my room for the night. Previousely, walked to the tourism office and was able to put together a custom tour inclusive of a Home Stay for the next day.

A major day as arranged by the tourism office with lots of canals, walking, different size boat and  transfers between the boats depending on the tide, bicycle riding. I must say that although a bit pricey, I felt that the tourism office came through.



Small Mekong Canal - can be very tropical


The Home Stay turned out to be the most delightful of all. I slept in a bungalow under a mosquito net on a wonderful piece of property right on a canal of the Mekong. The breeze was delightful and dinner delicious & abundant. The most heartfelt aspect was the owner, Mr. Tien who I got to have several conversations with through my interpreter. As it turns out, my host was previously a member of the Viet Cong. One would never know. I told him how messed up so many of our soldiers were after such a 1:1 type war and what a terrible war it was for everyone. As it turns out this Home Stay in particular is one that many of the returning US soldiers stay at, I assume to reconcile the experience for themselves. Several visiting soldiers had given him gifts including their medal of honor from the US Army which Mr. Tien proudly showed me. Mr. Tien also told me that after the war, the government gave him the land which he subsequently developed into a robust hotel and restaurant. A raging capitalist.

Next stop, Can Tho which was thankfully a little slower paced. The gem here is the Pang Diem Floating Market, small, non-motorized boats with a lot of 1:1 exchange and sales.  Almost like bumper cars as all the vendors floated about.



 Example of a small vendors boat
I have decided to finish up in Vietnam a few days early and spend a few more days shooting outside of Bangkok. I dread the trip which will involve 1 more brush with the HCMC taxi drivers but hopefully the better Taxi Company will be at my bus station when I arrive – I learned how to pick them out.

More to come soon,
Carpe Diem,
Lorrie 
www.LorrieDallekPhotography.com

Boats with Eyes





Why do all the mid and larger sized boats in Vietnam have eyes? Something I noticed in Hoi An but did not get to ask about until I had an English speaking tour guide. I am told that in the day of yore, here were very large crocodiles in the Mekong, that was until they were all eaten. Folklore has it that they were large & ferocious and would attack the boats. To ward them off, the seamen would paint eyes on the front of their boats. Now the boat was a bigger being than the crocodile

A second reason was so that the boat could see & find its way.   And lastly to swim with the other fish.

I will need to look all of this up on the internet but the painting in the front of these larger boats is quite pretty none the less.


More to come soon,
Carpe Diem,
Lorrie 
www.LorrieDallekPhotography.com

Wednesday, January 27, 2010

Horrors in Ho Chi Minh City for “Yellow Hair”



Took a flight from DaNang – HCMC. Just didn’t want to deal with another train ride.

Other than the unnecessary hassle from the airline RE: the size of my carry on photo case, the flight was straight forward. Now the taxi at the airport to the Mien Tay (southbound) Bus Station in HCMC was quite another mater.

They call me “Yellow Hair”, they don’t know the word for light brown. Clearly a tourist. At the Taxi Stand, we agreed that a meter would be used. I get in and the meter is not set. I keep saying meter, meter, but the driver who does not speak English ignores me. I keep repeating this getting more and more adamant each time. Finally he puts me on the cell with his English speaking boss, who gives me a $20 USD quote. No I reply, his response, $15 USD and laughs at me. NO the meter I insist. He hangs up on me and we continue to drive through thick traffic. “You start the meter or I will call the police”-no doubt wasted on this non-English speaking fellow or probably any other driver in this entire country. My next move; I climb over the seat and start pressing the buttons on the meter to activate it. He finally gets the message. The driver turns on the meter. What a frigging horror show – who needs this.

My total for the meter was 133,000D= $7.19.

More to come soon,
Lorrie Dallek
www.LorrieDallekPhotography.com

Monday, January 25, 2010

Happy in Hoi An



Blue skies, moderate temperatures, commutation to the hotel with a pleasant driver, what more can a girl ask for. How much better can it get. Well it did. The hotel staff (not a fancy hotel my any means) instantly learned my name, had a bathtub and very hot water and made changes when I just made casual mention.

Hoi An is a small town were I both walked & bicycled about without fearing for my life. Lots of old architecture, a very vibrant and visually stimulating Fish Market and the notorious “China Beach” a few Km’s away.


After walking the same path and smiling, the shop keepers started to ask me to photograph them. 1 guy even called me into his shop to show me his new puppy. Another was taking his water buffalo back at the end of the day and he saw me in the distance- he waved be over,  helped me walk across a very rickety bamboo bridge so I could get a lot closer. Very sweet people.

Here is how I spent my Sunday – are you jealous?


My view looking up from my umbrella





I loved it here so much that I extended for 1 day. Off later this am south to the Mekong Delta.

More to come soon,
Carpe Diem
Lorrie 
www.LorrieDallekPhotography.com

Friday, January 22, 2010

Be Careful of What You Wish for


In the spirit of making use of every second I have, I hired a private care to take me to a Thursday Market 2.5 hrs away before departing on the night train back to Hanoi.  A very small market but an opportunity to see the colorful Flower H’mong ethnic minority and several other Hill Tribe  people Warm weather and a touch of sun was in my favor.

The usual fare of people doing their weekly shopping. More unique were the horse drawn carts that some used, and the piglets that arrived to market in sacks with leashes on squealing the whole time. Despite being a meat eater myself, it is still disturbing to hear. I had previously seen dogs on their way to market in Laos and China, this time I got to seem them weigh the dog in. You know he wasn’t being sold as a house pet.


Then on to the train station for a 5 hr wait for my night train back to Hanoi and further south to Hoi An via an airplane. I had been taking a better class train, only 4 to a berth. 2 Europeans and I Vietnamese in my carriage. During my last hotel re-pack, I had thought to myself that I had brought perhaps 1 pair too many socks. No problem, my friendly bunk mate took care of that. Gone to the bathroom on the train for less than 5 minutes and so were my socks that were lying on my bed.

A relatively inexpensive reminder, NEVER LET YOURT GUARD DOWN. I hope that the people of Vietnam are a lot gentler in the South.


More to come soon,
Carpe Diem,
Lorrie Dallek
www.LorrieDallekPhotography.com

They Found the Water Buffalo - Sa Pa


The next day I spent the morning working on my logistics for the next city. When I came down for breakfast, I was informed that Dave the owner of the photo gallery was looking for me. Usually a good sign. Still in my sleepwear (not PJ’s), I ran down the hill – never let an opportunity slip through your fingers was what I was thinking to myself. Sure enough Dave told me that his employee, Cu, a Black H’mong woman and her village had located her long lost Water Buffalo.  Cause for a party. Did I want to come? You know the answer. A quick shower and breakfast and off we went on a motorcycle.


The found Water Buffalo

When I asked Cu how she knew this was her water buffalo, she said that she could just tell. Maybe its special long eye lashes??? What do I know about water buffalo anyhow :)

By 11 am the rice wine was out and all the guests were getting shit faced. Home made rice wine, pig, morning glory and rice. I limited the rice wine intake, shot some images and miraculously escaped getting sick from this experience. All and all a fun day.

More to come soon,
Carpe Diem,
Lorrie 
www.LorrieDallekPhotography.com
 My “2 H’mong Walking Sticks” - Sa Pa


Several weeks ago when I was thinking of going to SaPa, someone mentioned “it’s great if you have 2 H’mong walking sticks. I looked at them curiously not understanding what they were saying.  It sounded a bit disrespectful but I let it go at the time.

I arrived in Sa Pa, north of Hanoi, home to many different Hill Tribe People. The owner of my hotel mentioned that there was a Photo Gallery down the street. I did not waste any time and went right over. The photographer was an ex-pat from Denver Colorado. After covering all the photo basics he suggested that I spend the day going into one of the Hill Tribe Communities in the area. He was took it upon himself to walk me to the park and introduce me to a guide.

After negotiating a price, my Guide, Zi and I agreed that we would take the easier trip today to her home village.
Zi my guide
As we headed out, I felt like the Pied piper with 3 additional women in tow. All spoke English reasonably well so we covered the basics, starting with our respective age, marital status and # of children. Perhaps 1 Km out of town, Zi asked if I wanted to take the seldom taken route to her village – sure sounds like fun. This is when I learned the definition of “2 H’mong walking sticks”. Steep hills, tons of rocks and small quasi ledges to be negotiated. 2 of these 3 tiny woman, one on each side, wearing plastic sandals helped hold up and balance the big American lady wearing her super technical hiking boots. Oh, I forgot to mention that both of these ladies are in their 40’s. The 3rd woman was carrying a 2 month old baby on her back.




My 2 H'mong Walking Sticks



Both of my new 'best friends", each came up to about my shoulder




More to come soon,
Carpe Diem,
Lorrie